The Zambezi River

The fourth longest river in Africa, and the longest East flowing River in Africa.  This mass of water flows “through” six countries. Well, it flows through three, Zambia, Angola and Mozambique and is the river boarder between Zambia and Namibia, Botswana and Zimbabwe.  Whilst most reports states that the Zambezi rises and heads South West into Angola, in actual fact,  the Zambezi flows in all directions of the compass.

The Zambezi rises in North Western Zambia, a tiny bubbling puddle in the Mukangala area in the Mwinilunga district.  The site is both a National Monument and located in the Zambezi Source National Forest so is doubly protected.  The National Forest is also the home to two endemic plant species, Dissotis glandulosa, a perennial herb, and Elaphoglossum zambesionaum.  The river flows North, North East, slowly curving round before the border with the DRC and then flows East towards the Zambia/Angola boarder.  Once it crosses over into Angola it starts flowing in a South Westerly direction.  The Lumbala joins the Zambezi in Angola just as the river heads back towards Zambia before flowing South, through the Western Province.

This Upper Zambezi portion of the river is a beautiful remote area with a vast floodplain and sparkling white beaches so clean the sand squeaks as you walk on it.  Flowing through the Barotse Floodplain the river in full flood can reach a width of 25Km.

These floods dominate life, society, culture and the environment.  A spectacular ceremony, the Kuomboka takes place every year when the Litunga, the King of the Lozi people, moves from his residence at Lealui to Limulunga on higher ground.  Kuomboka means “to get out of water”.  The ceremony lasts for five days with the actual Kuomboaka taking place on the third day.  With much pomp and ceremony the Litunga boards his vast barge, Nalikwanda, painted black and white with a huge black elephant, complete with ears that flap, on the roof of the pavilion under which the Litunga sits.  The Litunga’s wife is transported in a second smaller barge with a cattle egret, with flapping wings, on the top.  The Nalikwanda is a spectacular craft of royal proportions with room for the Chief, his attendants, the royal musicians, and at least one hundred traditionally-clad paddlers.  The royal barges are accompanied by a huge flotilla of boats, barges and canoes with beating drums and traditional songs.  The last two days of the ceremony are a festival of dance and song welcoming the royal family to their second home.

And so, the Zambezi flows on South tumbling over the Sioma Falls and the rapids downstream before  it meets up with the Zambia/Namibia border and turns to flow towards the East along the Caprivi Strip, a wide, shallow slow flowing river.  A brief meeting with Botswana before the river meets the Zimbabwe border.

The Victoria Falls!  Considered the boundary between the upper and middle Zambezi, the river suddenly plunges, the world’s largest sheet of falling water, down one hundred and eight metres into a fissure in the basalitic rock churning in the boiling pot, squeezed through a one hundred and ten metre gap into the Batoka Gorge, zig zagging through six more principle gorges, churning over a succession of rapids before it calms down and flows into Lake Kariba.

Lake Kariba was created in 1959 following the building of the Kariba Dam wall.  One of the largest man-made lakes in the world, this vast lake is truly massive.  Travelling on the Lake there is water as far as the eye can see, 220Km long and, 40Km at its widest.  The building of the dam was, like all projects of this scale, controversial.  Large numbers of Batonga people were resettled and minimally compensated for their loss.  The powers that be at the time decided that the economic advantages outweighed the loss to the traditional residents of the area.  The name Kariba comes from Kariva, meaning trap, referring to a rock at the entrance to the gorge at the dam site, regarded as the home of Nyaminyami, the River god.

Today the Lake has developed and changed.  Fishing and tourism are the main industries in this truly beautiful place.

The River is now controlled, harnessed as it is released through the turbines of the power station generating electricity for both Zambia and Zimbabwe.  Occasionally, very occasionally, after heavy rains, the gates are opened and the water thunders out.  The wall buzzes.  Static electricity makes your hair stand on end.  Once more the river is constrained to a rock gorge.  In some places over 30 metres deep with spectacular hills rising up on both sides.  As the river comes out of this gorge and flows on Eastwards the curious onlooker may notice a large, bare patch on the Northern hills, possibly a meteor strike in the late 1970’s when the Rhodesian conflict meant there were very few witnesses in the area.

Under the Chirundu Bridge and the Otto Beit Bridge, the border post between Zambia and Zimbabwe.  The first bridge was built in 1938 – 39, financed by the Beit Trust.  This was the first modern suspension bridge outside the US built with parallel wire cables.  The increasing number of trucks using the bridge and the restrictions of a single lane made this a very congested crossing so a second bridge was built and opened in 2002.

The river is now busy with traditional fishermen in dugout canoes, social fishermen trying their luck, canoe safaris drifting downstream.  More and more lodges start appearing on the banks of the river.  Hippos sunbathe and crocodiles slide quietly into the constant flow, elephant swim and play.  If you are very lucky you may see a lioness and her cubs.  The cry of the fish eagle as it throws its head right back proclaiming its territory.   Officially the Lower Zambezi starts at Cahorra Bassa but in Zambia the area downstream from Chirundu is referred to as the Lower Zambezi.  In places the river is shallow with boat catching sandbanks and reed islands.  The Lower Zambezi National Park on the Zambian bank and Mana Pools on the Zimbabwean side, a spectacular sanctuary with herds of buffalo, a cautious kudu, a glimpse of a bushbuck, the chance to experience the adrenaline heart thumping of catching a tiger fish, see it jump once, twice, weigh it, photograph it, then release it and watch it dart away.

Onwards the Zambezi flows, leaving Zambia and entering Mozambique to meet one more dam wall, Cahorra Bassa, before it splits and shreds into the Zambezi Delta and so, into the Indian Ocean.  How long would it take a Pooh stick to make that 2 700Km journey, one can only wonder.

Island Hopping in The Seychelles

Many might wonder what sets The Seychelles apart from its neighbours. The answer is pretty simple, and it has largely to do with the way the islands are promoted. Unlike other island destinations which have becoming hip with party-goers, The Seychelles is the perfect destination for tourists who want nothing more than peace and quiet. Honeymoon couples, meet the paradise you’ve been looking for. Island hopping is also a popular choice among tourists... why not piece together your own customized island hopping experience and take in everything The Seychelles has to offer?

The fact that you can travel to The Seychelles at any time of the year also helps, because there are a wide variety of activities to offer, such as: hiking, cycling, snorkelling, and sailing. Shopping is certainly not out of the question, and there are many places where you can buy souvenirs from. In addition to this, renting a jeep is also a good way to explore the island you’re visiting, and there are a few national parks just waiting to be discovered.

The Seychelles’ main islands serve as the perfect point of departure for an island hopping holiday. Islands such as Mahé, Praslin, and La Digue offer many excursions to the smaller islands. Tourists have the option of either picking a day excursion, or an extended stay.

La Digue is the smallest island of the three, but it offers short trips via ferry daily or on a regular basis to islands such as Grande Soeur or Ille Cocos. Going on such a trip is not a difficult task, and it can easily be arranged with a local travel agency. Ille Cocos houses a marine park where you can enjoy day trips for diving and snorkelling.

 The second largest island, Praslin, offers trips from five minutes to an hour via ferry or charter plane to islands such as: St. Pierre, Cousine, or Curieuse. By contacting the hotel you are staying at, or a travel agent, you have the opportunity to go on an exciting adventure. The island of Curieuse was once a leper colony, but it is now currently home to a famous tortoise rearing project.

Mahé is the largest island, and therefore the one with the most possibilities for island hopping, either by sea or by air. Some of the chartered flights to islands such as Ste. Anne or Silhouette belong to luxury resorts and exclusive hotels, but many arrangements can be made with hotels or travel agents to get to the destination of your choice. The island of Moyenne, which can be reached via ferry, is of particular interest due to its history as a pirate haunt. Tourists can enjoy a one day excursion to Moyenne in order to swim, hike, and go snorkelling. In addition to this, Eco-tourism is a popular activity, and many enthusiasts travel to Bird Island to admire its large population of land tortoises.

If you’re planning an island hopping holiday, The Seychelles is an excellent choice. Not only does it offer a wide variety of attractions, but it also allows you to choose which islands to visit in a short period of time.

The Great Pyramid of Giza

There are sacred places which can be found all over the globe, and some of the oldest are located in Egypt. This ancient culture brought us a vast legacy of magic, mythology and history. In addition to their legends, their gods, and their scientific knowledge, the Egyptians built some of the world’s most amazing structures. From both an engineering standpoint and a spiritual one, the Great Pyramid of Giza is in a class all by itself.

Considered a sacred site by people the world over, the Great Pyramid is the oldest of the Seven Wonders of the World, and was built around 4,500 years ago. It is believed to have been constructed as a tomb for the pharoah Khufu, although there has been little evidence to this effect. The pyramid is often referred to as simply Khufu, in honor of the pharaoh.

Many people see the Great Pyramid as an example of sacred geometry in action. Its four sides are aligned precisely with the four cardinal points on a compass - not bad for something constructed long before modern mathematical techniques came into practice. Its positioning also serves as a sundial on the winter and summer solstices, and the spring and fall equinox dates.

On a metaphysical level, for some belief systems the Great Pyramid is a place of great spiritual significance. If the Great Pyramid was used for religious purposes - such as a temple, place of meditation, or holy monument -- rather than as a tomb, then certainly its size alone would make it a place of wonder. The ancient Egyptians saw the shape of the pyramids as a method of providing new life to the dead, because the pyramid represented the form of the physical body emerging from the earth and ascending towards the light of the sun.

Today, many people visit Egypt and tour the Giza Necropolis. The entire area is said to be filled with magic and mystery. 

Christmas in Africa

Christmas is celebrated throughout the African continent by Christian communities large and small. There are approximately 350 million Christians in Africa. On Christmas day carols are sung from Ghana on down to South Africa. Meats are roasted, gifts are exchanged and family visits made. The Coptic Christians in Ethiopia and Egypt celebrate Christmas on the 25th of December in their calendar, which is the 7th of January for most of the rest of us. Kwanzaa is not celebrated in Africa, as it's an African-American holiday. And unless you're in the Atlas Mountains in Morocco, there's little chance of anyone enjoying a white Christmas in Africa. Even in some of Africa's predominantly Muslim countries, Christmas is still marked for celebration. In Dakar, Senegal's capital, hawkers are happy to sell plastic trees and inflatable santas. "While secularism may mean elsewhere that each person is free to celebrate his or her own holidays, many in Senegal have interpreted it to mean they should celebrate all holidays."

Those who can afford it will generally give gifts at Christmas but the holiday is not nearly as commercial as it is in Europe or the Americas. The emphasis is more on the religious aspect of celebrating the birth of Jesus and singing in church, than it is on gift giving. The most common thing bought at Christmas is a new set of clothes to be worn to the church service. Many Africans are too poor to be able to afford presents for their kids and there aren't too many toy stores in rural Africa to shop at anyway. If gifts are exchanged in poorer communities they usually come in the form of school books, soap, cloth, candles and other practical goods.

As in most Christian cultures, celebrating Christmas dinner with friends and family tops the list after attending church. In most countries Christmas is a public holiday and people take the opportunity to visit friends and family. In East Africa goats are quickly snapped up at the local markets and roasted on Christmas day. In South Africa the sun is hot and the beaches are full of families enjoying braais (bbq's) or traditional Christmas dinners with paper hats, mince pies, turkey and plum pudding (a vestige of the British colonial legacy.) In Ghana Christmas dinner is not complete without fufu and okra soup and in Liberia rice, beef and biscuits are the order of the day. Zimbabweans make sure there's plenty of bread, jam and tea to eat along with their goat meat.

Decorating shop fronts, mango trees, churches and homes is common throughout African Christian communities. You may see fake snow decorating store fronts in Nairobi, palm trees laden with candles in Ghana, or oil palms loaded with bells in Liberia.

Etiquette while on Safari

In the middle of Africa, things run very differently from at home. It’s very important to be sensitive to your surroundings, both cultural and environmental – not only will it make your safari experience more enjoyable, but it will also have substantially less impact on the animals you’re viewing and your hosts.

Here are some tips for anyone going on safari:

• Be as quiet possible at all times (this is extra important if you’re considering taking small children on safari). Avoid making any noise that will attract or frighten wildlife.
• Be as unobtrusive as possible: wear the neutral coloured clothing (khaki, white, light brown) while walking in the bush.
• Dress and behave respectfully to avoid offending local people.
• Do not litter – everything you carry in you must carry out. Aside from the environmental damage, litter can be harmful to the wildlife. Waste disposal can be difficult in remote areas – remove all unnecessary packaging before you travel.
• Don’t encourage your guide to take you too close to the animals or to change the driving route; they will feel pressured. Remember that they are the professionals and know best.
• Never pick plants and flowers.
• Obey all game laws and regulations, and respect the fact that your guide must also obey these rules.
• Do not buy or trade for any articles covered under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES). These include ivory, turtle products, rhino horn, furs, butterflies and many plant species.

• Support the community by buying locally crafted souvenirs. Haggling is expected, but be aware that what may seem to be a very small sum to you can make a big difference to a local, so don’t force them into reducing their prices too drastically.
• If you wish to make a charitable donation – such as writing equipment for students – it’s better to give through a local organisation or school, as handing things out on the street encourages begging.
• As a courtesy, ask before you take a picture of someone, but think twice if they request payment.
• Be aware that water is a scarce resource in many places, so use it very sparingly. Sign up to Tourism Concern’s WET pledge to support the organisation’s campaign to ensure water rights are protected.

By observing these suggestions (many of which are simply common sense), you’ll find yourself at ease with locals and your surroundings. Avoiding tension or embarrassment with the locals, and respecting the animals and their habitat will mean that your safari holiday is a better experience for all involved.

Mopane Worms - Nutritious and Delicious?

The Boma restaurant is a classic tourist venue set in the lovely grounds of the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge. Dinner at the Boma is a legendary affair, with what looks like literally hundreds of local dishes served in buffet style, including impala terrine and sadza. A witchdoctor is available to tell your fortune by throwing his bones; dancers entertain with Shona and Ndebele acts; and then ... there's the vat of Mopane worms.

Most people who enjoy Mopane worms obviously do not get certificates when they eat a solitary grub. Normally, you'll see huge bags of dried and/or smoked Mopane worms in local markets throughout rural Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, South Africa and Namibia. They're greyish looking when dried (after their green guts have been squeezed out) and at first glance you might think they're a bean of some kind.

Mopane worms get their English name from hanging out on Mopane trees which are prevalent in Southern Africa. And they are not worms, but caterpillars, the larvae of the Emperor Moth. The best time to harvest them is when they are at maximum plumpness, late in their larval stage and before they bury themselves in order to re-appear as an Emperor moth. The Mopane worms like the Mopane tree, but they also feed off mango trees and other bushes. They are a seasonal delicacy, but you can also buy cans of Mopane worms soaked in brine in some local supermarkets. I looked around in vain for them at local Spars and Shoprites -- but failed to find them on my last trip to the area. Great souvenir idea I thought.

Mopane (sometimes spelled Mopani) worms are called phane in Botswana, mashonja in Zimbabwe and parts of South Africa, and omangungu in Namibia. Nutritionally they pack a punch consisting of 60% protein along with good amounts of iron and calcium. Since they require little input in the way of resources, it has become a valuable and profitable source of food and income. In South Africa it is a muli-million Rand industry. I heard complaints about the smaller size of mopane in a rural market in Livingstone, Zambia. Most likely a case of harvesting them too soon. Deforestation and over-harvesting are both issues that are affecting the supply of mopane worms.

The Weather in Africa

When you're planning a trip to Africa, knowing when the rainy season or wet season and the dry season falls, helps determine the best time to go. In general, the best time to go on safari is during the dry season because water is scarce and animals will congregate around existing water holes. The grass is lower affording better visibility and the dirt roads are navigable. All of these factors help you enjoy a successful safari. But the heat can be intense depending on where and when you plan to travel. So while cold temperatures are not a huge issue in Africa (although it does snow in some parts), hot weather can make or break your trip.

In some regions the heat during the rainy season is worse than during the dry season because of the added discomfort of humidity. This is especially the case as you get closer to the coast. The weather is unpredictable of course, and rains do fail causing untold hardship to millions of subsistence farmers in Africa. Some years too much rain falls on the parched soil, and floods cause huge damage. In general, the "wet season" means buckets of rain fall from sky for a few hours a day, and then it will go back to being nice and sunny. If you're looking to save some money, traveling during the wet season is the way to go. It's also the best time to see birds and baby animals.

The Rainy and Dry Season in East Africa - The hottest time of year in East Africa is during the dry season from December to March. Northern Tanzania and Kenya experience two rainy seasons, the long rains from April to June and a shorter rain from November to December.

The Rainy and Dry Season in Southern Africa - The dry season in southern Africa is during the cooler months from May - August. The rainy (wet) season is also the hottest time of year in southern Africa, and generally runs from November to March.

Winter and Summer in North Africa - North Africa generally has mild winters (December - February), perfect for visiting tombs and monuments in hot deserts or taking a camel safari in the Sahara. The summer months in North Africa (June - September) are blazing hot. Head to the beaches or mountains if you plan to visit during this time, or make sure your hotel has a pool to cool off in the heat of the day. Summers are usually bone dry.

Winter and Summer in South Africa - South Africa is far south enough from the equator to enjoy a somewhat traditional summer and winter season (although its geography doesn't make this quite so simple). South Africa's summers (November to March) are generally warm with average temperatures around 77 Fahrenheit (25 C).

If you are traveling to the Indian Ocean islands of Mauritius, Madagascar or Reunion, avoid the rainy season January - March because it is also "cyclone" season. Cyclones and hurricanes are extremely rare in The Seychelles.

How to Travel Through Africa?

Africa is the second largest continent, just after Asia. Africa is three times larger than Europe and twice as big as South America. It also has the most border crossings, with 53 countries within its territory. With so much land to cover, traveling through Africa is not an easy endeavor. Although you need to think about convenience and distances to cover, you also have to worry about safety, as many countries in Africa are in turmoil.

Step 1 - Make a list of the places you want to visit beforehand. Some countries require visas in advance, while others will give you a visa when you cross the border, either by land or via an airport. This will affect the way you travel, as you'll need to adapt to the visa regulations.

Step 2 - Fly whenever possible, especially if you need to cover long distances. Carjacking is a common problem in South Africa and other African countries. You also need to worry about bad roads, rebel attacks and other dangers, especially if you're traveling in Central Africa. Flights inside Africa are not expensive, especially if you stick to local airlines.

Step 3 - Hire a car with driver if possible. This is common in East Africa, where the economy is slightly better and private cars are available. Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania and other countries are ideal places to have a driver. The roads can be dangerous, and a local driver will know what areas to avoid and the best routes to take.

Step 4 - Use the mini-vans and small buses for local city travel. They're common all over Africa. They might not be the most comfortable or safe for long-distance travel, but they're fine for exploring the city. You'll need to check information on the specific country you're visiting. For example, Ethiopia's public transportation is safe and in better shape than buses in West Africa.

Step 5 - Skip the dangerous countries. You don't want to travel through Sierra Leone, the Democratic Republic of Congo, Nigeria, Sudan or Cote d'Ivoire. These countries have had problems with civil wars, rebel fights and violent conflict since the 1980s. If you need to get from Zambia to Uganda, for example, either fly or drive through Tanzania. A drive through Congo might be faster but also much more dangerous.

Volcano Dallol